When I finally made my confession I was surprised at the reactions I received. It seems I am not alone. So many people; my sister, a boutique owner, and several co-workers, told me they shared my shame. “Isn’t it terrible, I’ve never been there either,” they whispered. People travel from all over the world to visit Hearst Castle and yet many Santa Cruzans, like me, have never visited this landmark, just a few hours drive from home.
It’s not too late. I finally made the trip and they didn’t ask me any embarrassing questions. The good news is the Castle just added an evening tour so maybe it’s a good thing I waited. For those of you who have been living in a cave…W.R.Hearst built his “cabin” in San Simeon in the 1920’s as a weekend home but also as a legacy for Californians to see art and architectural influences from around the world. It cost him a year’s salary, $10 million, to create this southern European village high above the Pacific.
The tour guides do a great job of making you feel like you’re at a private soiree on the "Ranch” with William Randolph Hearst and Marion Davies, his long time mistress and a Hollywood actress. The docents are dressed in traditional evening wear of the 1930’s and act as though they are guests of W.R., his nickname. One dapper gentleman asked my husband Rich about his newfangled contraption (a digital camera). When Rich showed him the instant photos, the gent declared he had never heard of such a thing and that he must get one.
The tour begins at the outdoor pool where the clouds billowing around the blue water make it seem as if you are floating. Wear comfy shoes because there is a lot of walking and some steep stairs. The groups are kept fairly small and you’re able to stand right next to the furniture and art--very little is roped off.
The Renaissance-style Parlor room, where guests enjoyed cocktails, opens into a dining room with a Gothic theme. Church pews line the wall and the antique wooden table has ketchup and mustard bottles next to paper napkins. Remember Hearst considered this his country home! Despite the opulence I could see why Hearst referred to the Castle as a ranch. When we walked inside from the upstairs deck the last person in the line was instructed to shut the screen door so bats didn’t get in the house.
The library has a collection of pottery that could easily fill a small museum and the lampshades with musical notes painted on them were surprisingly modern. Marion Davies’ dressing room had flowered chiffon dresses thrown on the bed and a round oval mirror where I imagined her applying rouge before greeting Hollywood luminaries such as Cary Grant, Bob Hope and Robert Cummings. I was surprised that her room had a sewing machine but learned that she was quite a seamstress, a job I would have hired someone to do if I had her money!
Hearst was so advanced he had refrigeration and electricity and hot water in the middle of nowhere. The building and it's furnishings cannot be insured because there are so many priceless pieces of art.
In the theater guests are invited to watch a short Hearst-produced newsreel featuring a wrestling match that looked like a precursor to the WWF matches, highlights of a golf tournament where the winner was named Woods(!), and W.R. himself imploring Americans to buy war bonds.
The tour ends in the Roman-style indoor pool with inlaid tiles of real gold...the spot where late night illicit assignations were rumored to take place. Walking back to the bus for the ride down the hill, the full moon reflects off the ivory Greek statues scattered throughout the gardens. Keep your eyes open for wild animals. One woman on our tour claims she saw a zebra grazing with the cows. Apparently Hearst had a zoo at one time, some of the animals got loose and now the park rangers let them roam free.
Hikers will rejoice that a pristine two-mile section of Hearst Ranch has just been opened to the public. It's so new there are no trail markers yet so ask the Park Ranger office how to gain access to the sandy beach with no name.
If you’re making a weekend out of your trip, stay in Cambria. This bohemian village has funky antique shops, dive bars and bookshops, but I didn’t spot any chain stores. For dinner with an ocean view there are several outdoor dining spots offering fresh seafood. Keep your eyes peeled for whale spouts in the distance and seagulls nearby that swoop in to sample your seafood.
Hotel rates near the water are naturally much more expensive and noisier than spots inland. Nestled among pine trees, the Cambria Pines Lodge is only a few minutes drive from the ocean. Book one of the new cabins with a fireplace and settle in after strolling around the expansive manicured grounds.
Just a few miles away on highway 46, the Paso Robles wine region, is the opposite of Napa's commercial sideshow. Here you’ll still find guys making wine in their garage, lots of boutique wineries that only sell their wine on the grounds and the owner might be pouring for you.
Mastanuono Winery, one of the first wineries in the area, is known for their raspberry champagne and zinfandel. Jerry Gibbons, a mortgage broker during the week, is moonlighting there on weekends as a wine pourer so he can get material for a book. ”You wouldn’t believe the stories I hear.” he told me. Pasquale Mastantuono, nicknamed the “Zinman” is a fourth generation winemaker from Italy who moved to Los Angeles to make custom furniture for stars like Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin. He became friends with the rat pack, shared his homemade with them and it was such a hit he decided to start his own vineyard.
Clautiere is the most unusual winery you’re ever likely to visit. When you walk in the door you’re encouraged to don a brightly colored wig or mad hatter chapeaux. Every year they have a Moulin Rouge party where men dress in women's clothes and perform the can-can dance.
At Castoro, I saved money because samples are free, but more importantly I learned the best tip of my trip. They make the $3.99 wine with the Trader Joes label!
A trip back in time, wine without the attitude and unspoiled nature. Now you have no more excuses not to visit Hearst Castle.
Websites: www.hearstcastle.com
Available in Spring and Fall only, the Evening Tour takes approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes including the bus ride to and from the hilltop.
wwwcambriapineslodge.com www.pasowine.com www.cambriachamber.org
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